THE THREE PILLING HERITAGE TRAILS
The Pilling Heritage Trails were originally produced for the 1998 Pilling Heritage Fair.
Short Trail approximately 1 mile.
Start at the junction of Carr and Smallwood Hey Lanes.
1) The Methodist Chapel
The chapel was opened on the 13th June 1894 built at a cost of £3,118.65 with a seating capacity for 300 people. It replaced an earlier building which was situated on the site of 'Chapel House' Wheel Lane. This chapel was built in 1813 at a cost of £356.1. It was a plain building originally with just a centre aisle later converted to a centre and two side aisles with seating for 250 people. When the present chapel was completed the old chapel was dismantled, the stone being used to build the wall around the village school. Proceed towards the village.
2) The Old Golden Ball Hotel
This was a long whitewashed building with a butcher's shop at one end. It stood on the present play and parking area. The building was the centre of village life with the village green and the bullring to which bulls were tethered for the sport of bull baiting. It was used for many village functions so much so that one of the landlords, Mr. Cookson, could advertise himself as a publican, farmer, auctioneer and butcher.
An amusing incident took place at the Golden Ball, when a dance was taking place in an upper room which extended over the butcher's shop. The dance music was being supplied by a peg-legged fiddler accompanied by his daughter on the concertina. During one jig, the fiddler was beating time with his peg leg when he struck a rotten floorboard and his wooden leg appeared in the butcher's shop below, to be seized by some farm lads who had congregated there. One of them took the butcher's saw and cut through the peg leg saying "This is the only opportunity that I will have to remove a man's leg!" The lads were forced to pay for a new leg to be made at the joiners shop now called the 'Village Cafe'.
3) Myers Cottages
Note the windows on the north gable at the end. These were taken from the first Pilling Methodist Chapel when it was demolished.
4) The Village Pinfold
Opposite the Ship Inn is a footpath to the pinfold. This is worth a visit as it was rebuilt in 1997 and opened on the 26th September 1997. Pilling's pinfold appears on a map of 1734 and reflects a time when fencing, such as it was, was not stock proof, so straying animals were impounded by the Pinder in the pinfold to be reclaimed on the payment of a fine.
5) The Ship Inn
George Dickinson built this in 1782, a local man who became a sea captain sailing in a ship called 'The Happy Return'. His death is recorded in the parish register as:-
'George Dickinson Yeoman Late Captain in the Africa Trade'. This was perhaps a diplomatic way of saying he was a slave trader. He must have prospered, for when he retired from the sea he was able to build the Ship Inn, purchase land and a farm called Hooles Farm. In the Inn yard is an old cow tail pump with the initials of George Dickinson and Nancy his wife. Formerly attached to the north end of the Inn was the village smithy. Access to the Inn yard being through an arched doorway. An upper room of the smithy was Pilling's first Band room. In the 19th century the smith, Jos. Danson, was manufacturing 'bone-shaker cycles'.
6) Pilling Old Church
Follow the road by the side of the Ship Inn to the church. Pilling is probably unique in having 3 churches of 3 different periods on three different sites. The earliest is about 1 miles north east of this church, and is a very ancient foundation. (see 20 on long route) This church was built in 1717. Stone from the previous church was re-used and can be seen built into the north wall. Originally the walls were 3'3" (1m) lower at the eaves with probably a thatched roof. In 1813 the walls were raised and the pitch of the roof altered to accommodate a gallery on the north side. This reconstruction can be traced in the stonework on the south of the east gable end. You will see that the arched tops of the windows on the north side were raised to give light to the new gallery. Two bells were hung in 1728 but replaced in 1813. Over the door, which cost £3.9.3.in 1850, is a sundial that was erected in memory of the Rev. George Holden, perpetual curator of Pilling (1758-1767). He was a noted mathematician and together with his brother devised a formula to predict the height and times of the tides; a formula still used today. Approximately halfway between the south wall of the church and the graveyard wall can be found the grave of the Rev. G. Potter (1802-1825) whose doings have almost attained the status of folklore. He was something of a prize- fighter and is reputed to have fought thrice and preached twice on one Sunday. He was described by one of his flock as "the best fighter and preacher that ever came to Pilling.
7) St.John The Baptist Church.
Follow the footpath from the graveyard to the church. It was built to the design of Messrs. Austin & Paley, Architects of Lancaster, and considered by many to be one of their finest works. Dr. Moorhouse, Bishop of Manchester, consecrated it on the 24th June 1887. The east window was designed by Messrs. Burleson of London and was a gift of the Misses Elletson of Parrox Hall in memory of the Rev. Dr. Gardner. The west window was by Mayer & Co. of London and Munich and was dedicated to Mr.T.Corless of Springfield
House.
8) The Reading Room
At the church gate turn left. Benjamin Bamber Gardner of Fluke Hall built the Reading Room for the use of the young men of Pilling. It contained a collection of books, a billiards table and various games. After the funeral of Bamber Gardner, a rather macabre event took place in that, according to his wishes, his coach was burnt and his horses shot and buried. After trouble with the management of the room in the 1930's it was taken over and run by the parish council. During World War 2 it became the H.Q. for the Home Guard. After the war it reverted back to general village use.
9) Pilling School
A schoolmaster at Pilling was recorded in 1604. A map of Pilling in 1675 shows the school in its present position. In 1814 the school, which had been a small thatched building with a clay floor, was burnt down. In 1815, a new school was built and by 1874 had 40 pupils. Fees charged per quarter were, in 1843 3 shillings (15p) for reading, 5 shillings (25p) for writing, 8 shillings (40p) for writing with accounts. Prior to 1855 a public footpath ran in front of the school together with an open ditch which overflowed at high tide and continued towards the Ship Inn. In 1895 it was covered over and a trap door fitted at the shore outlet. The stone built part of the present day school, with the exception of the section to the right of the centre door, was built in 1856 at a cost of £1,300. In 1904, Major Hornby gave land at the rear of the school for an additional playground.
10) The Golden Ball Hotel
The Hornby family, one of the lords of the manor, built this. It was principally to accommodate their guests during shooting parties over their Pilling estates.
11) Broadfleet Bridge
Continue along the road towards the bridge. The large house at the end of the bridge was the former vicarage, now a private house. A bridge was first mentioned in 1652 when repairs were carried out to a wooden bridge. It was repaired again in 1682 but was washed away in March 1689. It was completely destroyed in the great storm of December 1720. The first part of the stone bridge was built in 1783. By looking over the parapet into the plantation on the east side, the entrance to the original arch, now blocked off, can be seen. The second part of the stone bridge, now with twin arches, was built in 1840. The imprint of the devil's hoof can be seen on the top of the parapet's coping stone about 50yds from the vicarage gate.
A local legend describes how, long ago, in the village of Cockerham (approximately 7 miles to the north) the devil took up residence in the churchyard and tormented the villagers with his evil doings, so they decided they must get rid of him. The village schoolmaster was voted the only man capable of doing this so he entered the churchyard and confronted 'Old Nick' as he was called. Terrified, he explained his mission and the devil agreed to strike a bargain. The schoolmaster was to set the devil three tasks. If the devil would fail in any of these tasks he would quit Cockerham forever, but if he succeeded the schoolmaster's soul would be forfeited. The first task that the schoolmaster gave to the devil was to count the dewdrops on a nearby hedge. The devil did this successfully. The second task was to count the ears of corn in a nearby field. The devil also completed this task successfully. At this point, the schoolmaster was getting desperate for ideas to fool the devil. So, at his last attempt, he asked the devil to spin a rope made of grains of sand and then drag it through the waters of the river Cocker. A fine rope was soon spun, but as soon as it touched the water it dissolved away. The devil flew into a rage as he was beaten. He bounded to the top of Cockerham's church tower from which he took a huge stride to Pilling bridge, leaving his hoof mark imprinted on the stone, and finally disappearing out to sea, never to be seen again! The local villagers probably made a hero out of the schoolmaster. From the bridge we have a good view of Pilling mill Return to the village by the same route.
Medium Heritage Trail - Approximately 3 miles.
12) The Amenity Area
As the Short Trail to Broadfleet Bridge, straight over the bridge and along the shore road. Signpost Lancaster to Amenity Area. This was once the villagers' main access to the marsh and sands via the 'Old Sands Road'. On the shore the villagers could fish, gather cockles, samphire and wreck from the sea. Pilling sands were famous for their fine cockles, and fisher folk from around the bay would travel to Pilling to collect them. At certain times of the year, up to the mid 19th century, huge shoals of herring would come into the bay to be netted and salted down to supplement the winter diet. This was also the site of the Pilling salt industry. Sand was raked up in the summer months when the top few inches contained a large concentration of salt. It was placed in wooden troughs with holes in the bottom and lined with straw to make a filter. Water poured over the sand dissolved the salt. The resulting salt solution was collected, boiled over peat fires to evaporate off the water, leaving behind the salt crystals.
Continue to the main Pilling to Lancaster road and turn right. The first two fields on your right and left are the sites of Pilling's salt industry and are called salt cotes. The hump in the field to your left is waste sand from this industry.
Follow the main road to the 'T' junction back towards Pilling.
13) Boggart Pit
The slight depression on your left at the corner was once a large pond the haunt of a notorious Boggart hence the name.
14) Fishers Row
The row of houses on your right are named after Mr. Fisher, a farmer and property developer who built the first houses there.
Turn right down Taylors Lane.
15) The Fish and Chip Shop
Formerly Shepherd's Joiners shop. Mr. Shepherd was killed early in the 1900's when a steam boiler used to drive his machinery, exploded.
16) The Oddfellows Hall
The former meeting place of the Independent Order of Oddfellows. One of a number of friendly societies who flourished before the advent of the National Health Service.
17) The Pilling Memorial Hall
Formerly The British Legion Comrades Hall built by the returning servicemen after the 1st World War as a social meeting place.
18) Pilling Mill
In 1242 there is mention of a water mill on or near the site. Water was conveyed to the water mill by a cutting from the stream at Stakepool across the fields for about half a mile to the mill. Yate's map shows a water mill on the east side of Pilling Bridge and a windmill on the shore side, most likely a peg mill. In 1808 the present day mill was built by Ralph Slater and is reputed to have been built in 21 days. Originally, with its revolving dome, it was 73ft high with six storeys. In 1886 it was converted to steam power and the sails removed. It had four sets of 6ft mill stones. Some can be seen near the mill. The composite stones with metal bands are called French Burrs and grind the finest flour. 1926 saw the end of the mill's working life. Towards the end of the 19th century, Richard Gornall, in his workshop behind the mill, was manufacturing Penny Farthing cycles. In 1888, he made cross frame safety cycles with solid rubber tyres and chain drive to the rear wheel - more like the cycles we know today.
Return to the village as on the Short Route.
The Long Heritage Trail - Approximately 4 miles.
Follow the Medium Route on to the Pilling to Lancaster road as before, then at the 'T' junction take the small lane to your left. (Horse Park Lane.)
(19) The farm on your left, opposite the duck pond is the last in a succession of dwellings to stand on or near this site. The first was a grange built by the monks of Cockersand Abbey early in the 13th century. John Kechin converted it to a manor house in 1543, when he purchased the former Abbey property from the Crown.
Continue along Horse Horse Park Lane, the name of which perhaps perpetuates a place where horses were kept. It is also the demarcation line between the former Moss to the east and the cultivated land to the west.
20) Pilling's First Church
The site of this can be seen about 300 yards down the road from Pilling Hall. Across the field to the right is a circle of willow trees following the edge of a moat. In this circle stood a church of Saxon or earlier foundation, the only remaining part of the fabric is a stone altar.
Please note this site is on private land and is not accessible.
21) A little further along the lane is a pond on your right. In times of drought this was the water supply for the neighbourhood farms and cottages; a small gate being set in the hedge for access.
22) After about mile, turn right at the 'T'junction onto Garstang Road. Note the Elletson family coat of arms on the house on the corner
23) St. Williams R.C. Church
This is a red brick building, the foundation stone of which was laid in 1890. Bishop Bernard O'Reilly performed the opening ceremony in 1891. The school to the rear of the church was opened on the 5th October, 1891.
24) Turn right at the Elletson Arms Hotel.
The Elletsons were one of the lords of the manor of Pilling, their residence being Parrox Hall in Preesall.
25) The Smithy
This stood across the road from the Elletson Arms Hotel. The site is now a bakery and private house.
26) Pilling Agricultural Show
This was a major village event prior to the 2nd World War. It was held in the field next to the former smithy now - covered with the houses on Stakepool Drive.
Continue along Lancaster Road. On the bend follow a small road to your left.
27) Field House
This is a typical old Pilling Cottage. One of very few still remaining.
Return to Lancaster Road.
28) Bodkin Hall
The white house facing you was one of Pilling's first smithies. It stood at the junction of a very old cart road, which following it now, is a footpath at the end of the house along the side of Newers Wood to Moss Houses and on to Horse Park Lane.
Turn left onto Taylors Lane and return to the village via the Medium Route.
The Heritage Trails were compiled and researched by Mr. W.H. Lawrenson.